Focusing on the spiritual side of surfing - courage, commitment, exhilaration, ecstasy, embracing of the moment, trusting the ocean. The interaction of human and ocean in the intensity of the moment. These are closeups taken soon after dawn, in high surf and very high winds that whip the sea into chaotic and fractal forms engulfing the surfers.
These images are part of a continuing project focusing on the spiritual side of surfing - courage, commitment, daring, focus, exhilaration, ecstasy, embracing of the moment, acceptance and trust.
Whereas the great majority of quality surfing photos focus on huge well-formed waves and spectacular stunts, these intimate closeups are intended to explore the dynamic interaction between the human mind and body and the ocean in the fierce intensity of the present. Soon after dawn the early sunlight from the East illuminates their faces as clearly as studio lighting.
I am equally interested in the shapes and forms that the ocean takes in moments of physical intensity. I choose days of high surf and very high winds when the sea is whipped into chaotic and fractal forms engulfing the surfers. These days are rare – only a handful each year. They are times of extreme challenge, when it is difficult to catch a wave and difficult to stay up for long, and when wipeout is far more likely than a clear run.